HUNZA PART 1

---THE FIRST SHANGRILA---
HUNZA
Where Mountains Meet    

Secret and elusive the Hunza Valley @ 8,000ft  is hemmed in by 20,000 ft mountains

Tucked in the Northern corner of Pakistan, are some of the most pristine and unspoilt mountain ranges in the world. This is the region with the greatest concentration of highest peaks and the most extensive glacier system outside of the Poles. Here, too, is the meeting point of the three greatest ranges, the Himalayas, the Karakorums and the Hindu Kush.

Known as the Northern Areas, this region was opened to tourism with the completion of the Karakoram Highway (KKH)in 1978. The KKH, a fantastic highway built with Chinese cooperation, took 20 years to complete and at great cost to life. Following the ancient Silk Route, it cuts through one of the world's toughest terrains, to snake for 805km from Ralwalpindi, Pakistan's capital, to the 15400ft. Khunjerab Pass on the Chinese border.

Buried in a gigantic mountain range, Hunza was, before the opening of the KKH, one of the most isolated regions of Pakistan. It was the first Shangrila, dreamt up by James Hilton in the novel Lost Horizon. Now it is accessible via the KKH from Gilgit, which is in turn connected by air from Ralwalpindi.

The one hour mountain flight into Gilgit reputed to be the second most dangerous flight in the world, was thrilling to say the least and gave us a spectacular aerial view of Nanga Prabart and the Karakorams. Hunza is only 112km drive from Gilgit along the KKH. Signs along the route warned of slide-prone areas and obviously the whole terrain had to be handled slowly and gently. The cliffs looming overhead appeared ready to crumble at the slightest agitation.

 

Primeval mountains

SAVAGE MOUNTAINS

The Hunza Valley situated at an elevation of 8,000ft is hemmed in by 20,000 footers.The mountains are craggy and rugged exposing bare flanks of rock, flint and snow. The bleakness of the heights is tempered by terraced valley fields and orchards planted with an amazing variety of apricot, peach, apple, cherry and plum trees.

The people of Hunza are noted for their longevity as Hunza is also known as the Village of Centenarians. The famous Hunza water is purportedly responsible for the good health. Hunza folk dress in traditional colourful costumes.The women are particularly lovely in baggy trousers and loose shirts, thier heads covered with embroidered caps, sometimes topped by a scarf. The men also don woollen caps, sometimes with a bright flower tucked rakishly at the side.

 

  

The village houses are of mud and stone,often with an apricot or mulberry tree leaning picturesquely against it. The roofs are flat with openings to let out smoke fromthe cooking hearth. Ladders are used for commuting between different levels as staircases are not a feature of village homes.

 

Hunza Village Scenes

KARIMABAD

Karimabad, the administrative capital of Hunza, is off the main KKH. It is situated on a perpendicular slope which is only passable to jeeps and, the ride up was like being pulled up the mountain feet first with our heads dangling after. Luckily this stunt-like, vertigo-inducing ride was of short duration.

Our aptly named Mountain View Hotel in Karimabad provided us with an unparallelled view of the 25,000 ft. Mt. Rakaposhi which dominates the whole valley. Next to Mt Rakaposhi was Golden Peak, Uttar, Passu and a host of unknown and unnamed snow peaks sitting cheek by jowl.

Near the vicinity of Karimabad are two old forts worth visiting - Baltit Fort, 600years old, and Altit, 300years old. Both are perched scenically on cliff tops and have all the ingredients of fairy tale castles featuring ornately carved windows, posts and towers. Both are accessible by jeep.

 

Altit Fort

 Baltit Fort