UNWINDING IN SIKKIM

Shedding our inhibitions and leaving urban Singapore behind we set out to explore Sikkim's narrow serpentime roads, sheer cliffs, serrated mountains and turbulent rivers.

Our 2 week tour cum trek was organised by a Sikkimese tour company, Foothills Adventure with whom we had corresponded for over a year. The company based in the capital Gangtok conducted business with the simple faith of innocent folks such is life like in Sikkim. Though small and obscure they were no fly-by-night operators and we found to our delight that we were not expected to pay a single cent until the last day of our trip.

Our holiday started with a trek at the hamlet of Yuksam,which is the base of all treks in West Sikkim. Yuksam meaning three lamas derives its name from the historical meeting of the three Learned Lamas who came togeter for the coronation of Sikkim's first king in 1641. A stupa and monastery has beern erected to mark this consecrated spot and the stone throne from the first coronation is still intact.

THE TREK

Yuksam-Dzongri

Most treks from Yuksam are bound for Dzongri, a two-day march away. The trail winds steeply though pure wilderness of pine, rhododendron, fir and oak forests,of waterfalls and streams. Not surprisingly, rare creatures like the red panda, blue sheep and snow pigeon make their home here.

Unlike Nepalese treks this was no Kleenex trail! According to the park warden,the routes are kept in pristine condition by constant cleaning and maintenance, not forgetting the relatively smaller number of trekkers.

Sunlight hours are short in late Autumn and each day we had to reach our destination before 5pm or face the ordeal of groping round cliffs and ravines in total darkness.

At 4030m Dzongri is the place for closeup views of Mt. Kanchenjunga, the third highest Himalayan mountain, where we were headed. But we never arrived there, as at various points of time, members of our group of six fractious individuals, ages 12-50 succumbed to illness, fatigue as well as a broken toe.

The Tibetan Villlage of Tshoka

However we made a refreshing two-day stop at the tiny Tibetan village of Tshoka,the last inhabited settlement on the route. There our accommodation was a simple trekkers' lodge, a short distance from the village.It was spartan lodging, but we weren't complaining because behind the lodge were the snowy peaks of Kanchenjungaand Pandim Whenever the clouds parted - unfortunately not often it was like the God's smiling down on us. In fact in Sikkim, Kanchenhunga is worshipped as a God and considered the Abode of Gods. That's why foreign expeditions attempting to scale this mountain are obliged to stop short of the summit in deference to local beliefs.Tshoka village stands at 3200m and consists of ten tibetan homesteads and one monastery, clustered on a slope.Wooden hedges fence in a rural scene of vegetable and potato plots, grazing horses and women hoeing the land.

Over all this ascetic Buddhist prayer flags flutter in the wind, mutely beseeching the heavens.There's no electricity and running water and the temperature is a numbing -2 degree.Life is surely not easy so it must be our urban minds that paint utopic pictures of rustic living. But for our group who did not have to get up early to tend to animals or the land, the mornings were quite sublime - with frost on the ground and the whole world locked in a quietness so deep, one could break one's heart just listening to the sounds of silence.

Walking with Devotees to Kechoepalri Lake

After the Holy Mountain, our next stop was the sacred Kechoepalri Lake also known as the 'Wish-Fulfilling Lake. Although its set in the middle of a wood and surrounded by dense foliage, not a single leaf disturbs its clear, blue-green waters. The birds inhabiting the nearby forests are said to act as 'guardians' by removing any waste which falls into the lake.

Kechoepalri the Wish Fulfilling Lake

Prayer flags strung from trees formed a hallowed canopy overhead, while below holy stupas lined the path leading to the lakeside. Together they created a spiritual mood.This caused devout pilgrims to tread quietly, as they came bearing unworldly gifts - fistful of wild blossoms,incense sticks,butter lamps and prayer flags. The pervasive religious mood was enchanting and we soon found ourselves shedding our cynicism and citylife complexities, and joined in with the devotees to cast our wishes - actually believing all our dreams would come true.

The Wheels and Road Journey:

Pemayangtse

A two hour drive led us to Pemayangtse,the old Sikkimese capital, another ideal spot for mountain reflection and where on a clear day you can see the mountains forever.

Perched just above the town the Pemayangtse Monastery is Sikkim's second oldest monastery. It features beautiful wall frescoes and shelves lined with holy sutras. Especially beautiful is the Santhokpelri, a huge wooden structure depicting a vision of Paradise, which occupies one room on the topmost storey. The holy man, Dunzin Ringpoche,was the inspiration behind this feat of art which was entirely handcarved and took five years to complete.

Gangtok

Our last stop was Gangtok, the Sikkimese capital. With a population of 45,000, this is the only place in Sikkim that actually bustles and looks crowded. Standing 1,520m high, the town is built on a slope, with modern houses tumbling down in haphazard fashion. In contrast, are the bazaars teeming with local color - and they are the nucleus of life in Gangtok. Our group picked up some good bargains - woollen goods, Sikkimese tea, Tibetan handicrafts and religious objects.

Gangtok Street Scene

Sikkim's largest and most active monastery - Rumtek Monastery is 24km away from Gangtok. The buildings are modelled on its original headquarters in Tibet and are a good example of Tibetan architecture shimmering in resplendent colours of red, gold and turquoise.

Rumtek Monastery

Such is the religious lure of Rumtek that it has drawn a Singaporean within its monastic walls. This lama whom we had the affinity to meet has overcome the cultural differences and language problems and adapted to the meditative life in Rumtek