After successfully completing the Roof of the World Journey our group arrived without mishap in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. Each one of us in the group of ten, must have, along the way, cherished some secret image or vision of Tibet. Medieval, wild, exotic, with mangy dogs, unkepmt citizens, levitating monks and other associations with the Forbidden Land ! Blame it on the early writers or media hype for colouring our minds with such strange notions or maybe blame ourselves for not keeping up-to-date. The Lhasa that we entered is a modern city with nothing remotely "forbidden" about it. Good paved roads, wide boulevards and concrete buildings with finish and polish is a more apt description.
Presto !
Lhasa in the 21st Century, seen from the 7th storey deck of the Potala Palace.
Despite the mobile phones, the internet connections and other signs of the hi-tech age, Lhasa still had a laid-back, other worldly feel about it. Traffic was sparse, monks in saffron robes are still chanting on rosaries, pilgrims still swing their hand held prayer wheels, and people of faith (count myself in) still dream of touching sanctity in Tibet. The imposing Potala Palace still dominates the landscape and the hearts of Tibetans and tourists alike. To this immortal building our group were headed on the day after our arrival.
Dominating the Lhasa skyline, the Potala Palace seen from Bakkor Square
The Potala Palace was first built at the time of Songtsan Gampo in the 7th century and extended in the 17th century by the 5th Dalai Lama. The present day complex consists of the Red and White Palace built on the Red Mountain at an elevation of 3,700m making it the world's highest palace. It is 13 stories high with 1000s of rooms, chambers, halls, and chapels. It is a stunning piece of architecture, combining stone and wooden Tibetan watchtowers and Han Chinese palace halls with traditional beams and pillars, golden roofs and sunk panels. Courtyards and winding corridors provide a maze of interlocking patterns and space. My impression has always been that Han Chinese and Tibetans are as different as chalk from cheese, but where monasteries and palaces are concerned they have a lot of similar points.
Front View of Potala, with well scrubbed, empty roads.
Unlike pilgrims of old, modern day tourists are driven up the back of the mountain to the midway level where a short climb leads to the entrance of the White Palace. When we arrived the bus bay was full and groups of foreigners, mostly Westerners and Japanese were milling around. Expectations ran high as we tripped up the wide stone steps in the shadows of the towering palace. I took out my rosary to simulate a mood but was as diverted by the well heeled, well equipped crowds as by the historic walk up the Potala. I saw shutterbugs, with cameras strapped around their necks, others had videodigitals in their palms, binoculars hooked to their belts, torches stuck to pockets (for lighting up the dark wall frescoes), recorders hanging from wrists (for recording the details related by guides), ... but who was I to comment? I was as wild as anyone. Everyone happily snapping away to store a memory because once we stepped through the gates of the Potala there would be no more picture taking until we reached the roof. They say that the Potala is a Center for high energy and it was no wonder that we were feeling so light headed.
Just before stepping through the portals, our guide kindly reminded us to remove out hats, put away cameras and to behave in a sensitive and appropriate manner. I think he meant to say "do not ask questions on sensitive issues."
Modern day tourists trekking up to the White Palace, Potala.
Inside, wending through numerous chapels filled with stautes, shrines, tombs and stupas dedicated to various Dalai Lamas, we met with swelling queues and jostling crowds reminiscent of standing in line to view the crown jewels in the Tower of London. The religious art treasures, tangka paintings, historical relics and wall fresoes depicting events and legends are a testimony not only to the faith of Tibetans but also the high quality of Tibetan art in the 7th century and again, in the 15th-16th centuries, when the palaces were rebuilt. Although mostly a museum, the dimly-lit, high ceiling, ceremonial halls of the Potala still commanded a sense of its past glory and spirit. Besides demonstrating cultural interchange with the Han Chinese these art treasures also demonstrated a culture which is in no way inferior to the Han Chinese.
Western media have often harped on the persecution of Tibetans by the Han Chinese but I got this gut feeling, walking through these hallowed halls that there must have been a time when both races were close as brothers, otherwise how to explain such a natural intertwining of art and customs, from sutras and scriptures, to garments, silk brocades, curtains, and canopies. Etched on the wall frescoes are also records of social events between Chinese emperors and Dalai Lamas. Hmmmm ...., perhaps I like to believe it, but maybe there was even mutual admiration on both sides !
The Tibetan pilgrims among the crowd carried bags of yak butter which they spooned out to dab on to the candle bowls of shrines as they counted their rosary beads. They also donated money in the offerings bowl and following their example we also placed our money in the heaps. We learnt that the deities could also act as "bankers" for when we ran out of small change, which was pretty soon, we could put our ten yuan offering in the bowl and take back hundreds of fen, and then continue our round of offerings .... !
Upon reaching the Roof of the Potala which is an open area, shutterbugs were finally allowed free rein. It was quite a carnival atmosphere up there with tourists jostling for space for that memorable picture.
Carnival crowds
Tourists jostling for space on Potola roof
NORBULINGKA
From the Red and White Palace of the Potala we proceeded to the Summer Palace, or Norbulingka. Located, 3km West of Potala, it was constructed in the 18th century as the summer resort of the Dalai Lama. As its name implies, it is somewhat of a leisure park, made up of palaces surrounded by gardens, pavilions, lakes and ponds with picturesque overhanging treees.
Our visit coincided with the Xue Dun (Fermented Milk)Festival which had its roots in the Buddhist practice of religious "cultivation" in the mountains. After the period of cultivation, these folks would be welcomed back by their families with fermented milk together with singing and dancing. These celebrations have evolved into the Xue Dun Festival and now every year Tibetan opera troupes perform in the Norbulingka attracting Tibetans from all over Tibet and Qinghai.
Opera Troupes enacting plays and dances to a captive Tibetan audience.
Strolling through the sprawling grounds we caught a glimpse of how Tibetans enjoyed themselves at the Festival, music making, guitar strumming, playing cards and mahjong, picnicking and praying on their ever spinning wheels.
Xue Dun Festival at Norbulingka
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