Why we chose to go

Riding the highest highway in the world

“It’s now or never and no second chance" was how one journalist described the travels of English novelist John David Morley to Lamalera, a remote fishing village in Indonesia. Although John Morley had heart problem and was using a pig’s valve to replace one faulty valve in his heart, he was still game to risk his condition together with the attendant dangers associated with the remoteness and inaccessibility of the destination. And all for his heart’s, desire to observe the near extinct practice of hunting sperm whales as a subsistence living.

Our overland journey into Tibet was nowhere so dramatic but counting all the odds, it felt quite comparable! The overland journey would pose a challenge for anyone but more so for our group of ten elderly participants (the average age was 65 with the oldest members at 78 and 77)if we consider the long hours on the road, the high altitudes we had to reach, and the fear of being trapped for hours on the mountain passes.

With mountains rising up to 7000m and peaks topping 8000m above sea level Tibet, has achieved fame as the Roof of the World. It is indeed not a land for the faint hearted or the old. And if Tibet is the Roof of the World, then Qinghai, which is the remote and equally forbidding province sitting on top of Tibet must be its Rooftop! And we were to traverse across this bleak and treacherous region known as the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau into Lhasa. On the plus side, land travel into Tibet may be the best way to go, not only for the spectacular scenery en route but because it can help spread the altitude gain over a few days.

What then drove us to embark on such an “expedition"? It was not a rite of passage. We were not out to prove our strength in the face of halting youth nor were we marking our aging. Unlike Morley I did not have heart problems but suffered from aches and pain. However I had long been enamoured of the Qinghai/Tibet Highway lured as I am by the evocative place names of Kunlun, Tanggula, Re-Ye Shan, and Feng Huo Shan, and the giddy heights associated with these remote mountains.

The idea of retracing Princess Wenchen’s journey into Lhasa was another strong pull. Among other sweet dreams I had been nursing about Qinghai and Tibet was this strange one. I fancied myself as a pilgrim taking the arduous overland road and tolling my beads all the way into Lhasa. Never mind if I could not emulate pilgrims who prostrate and kneel, at least I would not be arriving on a jet plane. Was this the meaning of embracing hardship or what the Chinese call the spirit of “jian ku"?

What the 78 and over 70’s in our group were seeking I do not know. Perhaps they did feel “time’s winged chariot" drawing near but from the positive energy they generated no one was having a death wish! They were a tough old bunch, these oldies. Not unlike the mountains we were to traverse.

The Highway winds through high mountains and rugged terrain

The Qinghai-Tibetan Highway which leads into Lhasa is a paved road covering 1947km and is the highest highway in the world passing through mountain roads above 5000m with the highest pass at Tanggula at 5231m. A journey along this highway is truly one of those one in a life time trips.

QINGHAI

Overland to Tibet

Xining to Golmud by train.
Xining, the capital of Qinghai, stands at the modest elevation of 2295m and is one of the starting points of the overland road journey into Tibet. Here the Qinghai-Tibetan highway wends through high moutain roads above 5000 m and ends in Lhasa.

Apart from its famous Highway, Xining boasts many other scenic and historical landmarks.The Ta’er Monastery is arguably one of Xining’s most famous religious site. It is one of the six biggest monasteries of the Yellow Hat Sect branch of Tibetan Buddhism and the birthplace of Tsong Khapa(1357-1419) the founder of the Sect. Apart from being a repository for Tibetan culture and heritage the monastery also displayed an unusual blend of Chinese and Tibetan architecture, with Chinese upturned eaves sitting on Tibetan flat roofs. Stupas, prayer bells, tapestries, flags and murals all showcase the richness of Tibetan culture..

Ta'er Monastery, Xining

Elsewhere the sparsely populated Qinghai grasslands present a lovely folorness - goats, sheep,yak, donkeys,nomad's tents,herder's huts and camp fires appear as blobs on the vast plains.Tibetan prayer flags and cairns are also part of the lonely landscape.

Lofty and lovely - Qinghai Grasslands

The present day road from Xining to Qinghai Hu runs through the fabled Tangbo road, as it was known in the past. It is now a paved highway which is as redolent with history as with mountains. It has formed part of the Silk Road since the 3rd century BC., after the region came under Chinese control.

The most famous historical figure passing this way was Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty. In the seventh century she was sent in a political marriage to King Songtsen Gampo of the Turbo Kingdom (Tibet). The marriage must have been a success as the Princess is much loved by both the Han Chinese as well as the Tibetans. Both groups have built shrines and memorials in her honour.

The Re-Yue Shan (Sun Moon Mountains) is a very important pass (at 3510m) and got its name when the grief stricken princess, discarded her Sun-Moon Mirror in a symbolic gesture indicating her severance with her homeland. A sympathetic river near by even changed its course to empathise with her plight, the Dao Xiang He (Back Flowing River) is said to be dedicated to her. A pavilion located on a hillock has been erected in her honour.

Princess Wencheng Memorial

The overcast sky, craggy terrain, and bleak horizon conspired to recreate history . It is indeed an eerie, mournful place filled with the ghosts of yesteryear.

Qinghai Hu also known as KoKo Nor Lake our overnight destination at  3239m is located 130km from Xining. It is the largest salt water lake in China and famed for its scenic lake views but the drizzle make sightseeing unpalatable especially since a few of us were nursing headaches, nausea and palpitations all classic symptoms of altitude sickness.

 

Our hotel is a complex of single storey buildings set within a sprawling compound not unlike our holiday bungalows back home. Although the buildings look run-down the rooms were clean and furnished with quaint old furniture, rather a refreshing change from the modern hotels in big Chinese cities. The only complaint was the shower lacked a shower head and the chambermaid tartly advised me to exercise some creativity if I needed to wash! That night with 2 panadols and a sleeping pill it was sweet slumber on a pillow full of beans.

Qinghai Hu on a rainy evening

Next morning we boarded an overnight train from Xining to Golmud. The train journey passes through the salt marsh region of Qinghai. The Salt Lake and Salt Pond formed by the action of glaciers is the largest salt production site in China. Part of the rail track and Highway is built on a Salt Bridge.

Golmud is close to the borders of the Gobi desert and it is a dusty dreary place. Golmud at 2800m marks the start of the “Roof of the World" section of the Highway where all the Big Passes are located. It is also a stopping point for acclimatization to prepare travelers for the high altitude ahead.

OVERLAND TO LHASA

Day 1 : Golmud to Tuotuo He

The entire road journey to Lhasa is 1165km and takes 3 days. The first lap from Golmud to Tuotuo He the source of the Yangtse River is reputed to be the most difficult and yet our guide optimistically prepared us for an 8hr drive over 402km. The journey starts on a good tarmac highway with desert on both sides and brown mountains in the distance. Cables, wires and electric lines contrast with the gradually opening amphitheatre of rocks, granite and sand. The passing mountains alternate between changing shades of beige, olive and ochre. Although the Qinghai plateau is a desert there is no lack of water because of the many glaciers and spring and underground waters.

Passing through the famed Kunlun Mountains, it is a steep climb to the Kunlun Pass and on to Kunlun Qiao at 4000m, then on to Kunlun Quan which is a natural spring whose waters refreshed Princess Wencheng and her entourage on their epic journey to Lhasa or so the story goes.

Kunlun Qiao

In front of the Xue Shan Cafe, a designated lunch stop, the white tongue of the Meikuang Glacier protrudes down the Kunlun Mountain slopes. The weather is unpredictable and all the way up the pass, snow fall alternates with azure skies.

At the top of the mountain pass we are awed by endless vistas of snow fields and moorland, while Yuzhu Peak at 6177m sits like a crown on Kunlun Mountains. The Kunlun Pass 4700m, is marked by a broken plaque, the result of recent earthqukes. A snow lion and an eagle decorated with scarfs stand on either side of the plaque.

The Chinese marks high passes with pillars, statues and plaques. The Tibetan way is more artistic and spiritual. They decorate the passes with gossamer flags which hang in long strands from poles or tied together to form a pyramid like structure. These prayers flags have chants inscribed on them and wing their way heavenwards. Small cairns built with stones and rocks and some times laced with prayer flags and wild flowers are another Tibetan expression of reverence.

Prayer flags express the Tibetan faith

Leaving the Pass our trip literally started going downhill. It has been said of this Highway that if the mountains don’t kill you the traffic jams and road blocks would. The Qinghai Tibetan Highway at an average elevation of 4000m is under constant stress all year round from adverse weather conditions while wild fluctuations in temperature cause the road surface to crack up and break open. Whole stretches of the Highway maybe arbitrarily closed without prior warning for repair and resurfacing. Staring in our faces, as we descended was an epic high altitude traffic jam. The sight of the vehicles lined up bumper to bumper was enough to give us mountain sickness!

Epic traffic jam

All the vehicles including ours had the ignition off and from the stoic atmosphere all round it looked like everyone was prepared to camp overnight on the mountain. The guides tried every trick in the book to get us out of the jam. An eternity afterwards a policeman comes aboard to inspect us. It transpired that our guide had “bluffed" him that some of his passengers had taken ill and to give us special concession. Our wan faces must have convinced him because miraculously he agreed to let us move and was quite solicitous about our welfare! At the next road block we were not as lucky. We were not accorded VIP treatment and had to wait in line until the authorities allowed us to move. By then it was pitch dark.

The road blocks and jams had delayed us by many hours and we had hundreds more kilometers to cover before Tuotuo He. We were travelling on a rough road which felt like a dirt track. The coach raced along at breakneck pace and I did not know whether to be glad or alarmed by the darkness. The altitude was getting to our heads and hunger was gnawing at us. Instead of enjoying Qinghai’s endless plains, it felt more like enduring endless pain on an endless journey!

In this manner we must have climbed to the Feng Huo Shan Pass at 5100m in the dark! And we were to pass the source of Tuotuo He at 4530m in this manner too. We were too dumbstruck and shell shocked to complain that we had missed all the sights.

At 11.30 pm we finally pulled up at Tuotuo village, at 4650m, for dinner and at 12.30pm, after 18hrs on the road we reached our overnight hotel. The ‘hotel' which everyone afterwards referred to as the ‘Hei Dian' or Black Inn did not have electricity. The entrance was lit up with a gas lamp but the interior was plunged in ghostly shadows. Someone was passing candles around and in the confusion we were shunted into shack like rooms. I tottered to the common loo which by the light of a torch turned out to be a trench!
(Day 2 to be continued in next post)

OVERLAND TO LHASA

Day 2 Tuotuo He to Naqu

Barely had our heads touched the pillow when it was morning call at 5 am and we were on the road again. This stage would take us from Tuotuo He to Naqu over 433km in blank hours, no one dared hazard a guess. We were beginning to feel suicidal and fatalistic as the previous days pattern was replayed. The worst ordeal was when we were held up for 3 hours. Some of us then decided to convert our seats into daybeds by pulling out the centre aisle seat and settled down for a well earned snooze. Those of us who did not gain this privilege commented that the coach was taking on the appearance of an ambulance.

After all the jams and blocks and diversions, we were finally riding on the highest road in the world. With glaciers flanking both sides of the road we ascended the Tanggula Pass at 5231m which is the highest point in the Qinghai Tibet Highway. For a lowlander like me, 5231m was indeed a high point in my life. And now I felt that the hardship of traveling this road was well worth it. I couldn’t get over the wonder that I was higher than the peak of Europe’s Mt. Blanc or the Annurpurna base camp. “What is a mountain peak elsewhere in the world is but a highway in Tibet!" - is an appropriate tribute to the ingenuity of the Chinese road builders.

Tangula Pass at 5231m is the highest point in the Qinghai Tibet Highway

At this altitude harsh natural conditions are the order of the day. The average annual temperature is -8C with the lowest temperature reaching -40C. The oxygen content here accounts for only 50 percent of the volume at sea level hence the area is regarded as a “life-threatening zone" Even in August we donned down jackets and mittens when we stepped out into the thin air and bitter cold to experience the barren wilderness.

Tangula Wilderness

For obvious reasons, the pass is not a place to tarry and we descended swiftly following the highway until we leave Qinghai province behind and arrive at Tibet’s most northerly town Naqu. Naqu is the administrative headquarters of Northern Tibet and here in a symbolic gesture to mark our stepping on Tibetan soil, we were greeted with white scarves.

(Day 3 to be continued in next post)

OVERLAND TO LHASA

Day 3 Naqu to Lhasa

On our third and last day’s ride into Lhasa, the road improved and we covered 330km over 5hours. From Naqu onwards the bleak and desolate Qinghai plateau is replaced with pastoral scenes of sunny valleys and running streams. We start to catch glimpses of colour - valley floors golden with rapeseed wheat and maize, hill slopes dotted with clumps of mauve, pink and blue wild flowers and of course black yaks, white goats and wild ponies. Footbridges over streams are festooned with prayer flags, medieval Tibetan farmhouses with flat roofs and square cut windows are hung with bright strips of cloth, while electric wires compete with prayer flags which fly like ship’s mast from every Tibetan homestead. It gets to look more and more like God’s own country and it is not for nothing that Tibet is known as the Holy Land.

Where beauty walks in God's own country

Stopping by the Yangbajing Hot Springs we are an easy 91km away from Lhasa.

Yangbajing Hot SpringsAs we approached the Holy City we felt charged by energy from the sun. Lhasa is also known as the City of Sun with 3000 hours of sunlight annually and the intensity of the sun is like nowhere else on earth. Bathed in this radiance we follow the tree lined road until the golden roofs of the Potala Palace told us that we had arrived.

Potala Palace, the essence of dreams

Route Map

LHASA PART 1

POTALA PALACE

After successfully completing the Roof of the World Journey our group arrived without mishap in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. Each one of us in the group of ten, must have, along the way, cherished some secret image or vision of Tibet. Medieval, wild, exotic, with mangy dogs, unkepmt citizens, levitating monks and other associations with the Forbidden Land ! Blame it on the early writers or media hype for colouring our minds with such strange notions or maybe blame ourselves for not keeping up-to-date. The Lhasa that we entered is a modern city with nothing remotely "forbidden" about it. Good paved roads, wide boulevards and concrete buildings with finish and polish is a more apt description.

Presto !

Lhasa in the 21st Century, seen from the 7th storey deck of the Potala Palace.

Despite the mobile phones, the internet connections and other signs of the hi-tech age, Lhasa still had a laid-back, other worldly feel about it. Traffic was sparse, monks in saffron robes are still chanting on rosaries, pilgrims still swing their hand held prayer wheels, and people of faith (count myself in) still dream of touching sanctity in Tibet. The imposing Potala Palace still dominates the landscape and the hearts of Tibetans and tourists alike. To this immortal building our group were headed on the day after our arrival.

Dominating the Lhasa skyline, the Potala Palace seen from Bakkor Square

The Potala Palace was first built at the time of Songtsan Gampo in the 7th century and extended in the 17th century by the 5th Dalai Lama. The present day complex consists of the Red and White Palace built on the Red Mountain at an elevation of 3,700m making it the world's highest palace. It is 13 stories high with 1000s of rooms, chambers, halls, and chapels. It is a stunning piece of architecture, combining stone and wooden Tibetan watchtowers and Han Chinese palace halls with traditional beams and pillars, golden roofs and sunk panels. Courtyards and winding corridors provide a maze of interlocking patterns and space. My impression has always been that Han Chinese and Tibetans are as different as chalk from cheese, but where monasteries and palaces are concerned they have a lot of similar points.

Front View of Potala, with well scrubbed, empty roads.

Unlike pilgrims of old, modern day tourists are driven up the back of the mountain to the midway level where a short climb leads to the entrance of the White Palace. When we arrived the bus bay was full and groups of foreigners, mostly Westerners and Japanese were milling around. Expectations ran high as we tripped up the wide stone steps in the shadows of the towering palace. I took out my rosary to simulate a mood but was as diverted by the well heeled, well equipped crowds as by the historic walk up the Potala. I saw shutterbugs, with cameras strapped around their necks, others had videodigitals in their palms, binoculars hooked to their belts, torches stuck to pockets (for lighting up the dark wall frescoes), recorders hanging from wrists (for recording the details related by guides), ... but who was I to comment? I was as wild as anyone. Everyone happily snapping away to store a memory because once we stepped through the gates of the Potala there would be no more picture taking until we reached the roof. They say that the Potala is a Center for high energy and it was no wonder that we were feeling so light headed.

Just before stepping through the portals, our guide kindly reminded us to remove out hats, put away cameras and to behave in a sensitive and appropriate manner. I think he meant to say "do not ask questions on sensitive issues."

Modern day tourists trekking up to the White Palace, Potala.

Inside, wending through numerous chapels filled with stautes, shrines, tombs and stupas dedicated to various Dalai Lamas, we met with swelling queues and jostling crowds reminiscent of standing in line to view the crown jewels in the Tower of London. The religious art treasures, tangka paintings, historical relics and wall fresoes depicting events and legends are a testimony not only to the faith of Tibetans but also the high quality of Tibetan art in the 7th century and again, in the 15th-16th centuries, when the palaces were rebuilt. Although mostly a museum, the dimly-lit, high ceiling, ceremonial halls of the Potala still commanded a sense of its past glory and spirit. Besides demonstrating cultural interchange with the Han Chinese these art treasures also demonstrated a culture which is in no way inferior to the Han Chinese.

Western media have often harped on the persecution of Tibetans by the Han Chinese but I got this gut feeling, walking through these hallowed halls that there must have been a time when both races were close as brothers, otherwise how to explain such a natural intertwining of art and customs, from sutras and scriptures, to garments, silk brocades, curtains, and canopies. Etched on the wall frescoes are also records of social events between Chinese emperors and Dalai Lamas. Hmmmm ...., perhaps I like to believe it, but maybe there was even mutual admiration on both sides !

The Tibetan pilgrims among the crowd carried bags of yak butter which they spooned out to dab on to the candle bowls of shrines as they counted their rosary beads. They also donated money in the offerings bowl and following their example we also placed our money in the heaps. We learnt that the deities could also act as "bankers" for when we ran out of small change, which was pretty soon, we could put our ten yuan offering in the bowl and take back hundreds of fen, and then continue our round of offerings .... !

Upon reaching the Roof of the Potala which is an open area, shutterbugs were finally allowed free rein. It was quite a carnival atmosphere up there with tourists jostling for space for that memorable picture.

Carnival crowds

Tourists jostling for space on Potola roof

NORBULINGKA

From the Red and White Palace of the Potala we proceeded to the Summer Palace, or Norbulingka. Located, 3km West of Potala, it was constructed in the 18th century as the summer resort of the Dalai Lama. As its name implies, it is somewhat of a leisure park, made up of palaces surrounded by gardens, pavilions, lakes and ponds with picturesque overhanging treees.

Our visit coincided with the Xue Dun (Fermented Milk)Festival which had its roots in the Buddhist practice of religious "cultivation" in the mountains. After the period of cultivation, these folks would be welcomed back by their families with fermented milk together with singing and dancing. These celebrations have evolved into the Xue Dun Festival and now every year Tibetan opera troupes perform in the Norbulingka attracting Tibetans from all over Tibet and Qinghai.

Opera Troupes enacting plays and dances to a captive Tibetan audience.

Strolling through the sprawling grounds we caught a glimpse of how Tibetans enjoyed themselves at the Festival, music making, guitar strumming, playing cards and mahjong, picnicking and praying on their ever spinning wheels.

Xue Dun Festival at Norbulingka

ROAD TO GYANTSE

Leaving Lhasa behind we were headed for the town of Gyantse, some 260kms away. The ride has got to be the most dramatic of all, as we would cross 3 Big Passes, take in a Holy Lake, a Crystal Glacier and an artificial lake all in one day, stretching over 9 hours. We started off on a gravelled road driving through harsh, denuded mountains. The dusty road wound through deep valleys and squeezed up cliff hugging paths as the unending vista of granite mountains, cyan skies and turquoise waters swept us along.

I had read about rock-throwing urchins posing a menance on these roads and I was on a lookout. Now and then we did see children running down the rocky slopes but none aimed any unfriendly shots at us. Instead they looked overjoyed just to wave at our passing bus while we waved just as delightedly back. Although we would dearly liked to have stopped many times along the way to capture the wild scenery our guide would not allow us many stops onroute except for the designated spots. At one of the rare unscheduled stops for a member to answer his call, two little girls appeared as if from nowhere to gaze at us. These two were so shy it was hard work to persuade them even to come near and these 2 tendermites were certainly not out to harm us.

The dust which crept in through the slits and crevices of the tightly shut windows was unbearable. On the bad stretches the bus rattled and shuddered until we were all broken up. At every super Bump I was tossed up and down and our overhead luggage was in constant danger of crashing down. And yet the beauty of the place is inexpressable ! Far below us the valleys appeared tranquil as in a dream -- golden with rapeseed and crisscrossed by ribbons of blue water. On the distant brown slopes, like a picture out of Biblical times, nomads in homespun clothes lead their flock. When the road descended to river level we were plunged straight into the valley we dream-watched, high up in the precipices. The driver absolutely refused to stop for us to capture all these brilliant moments, perhaps the road was really very dangerous.....and so willy nilly, through Paradise or through Hell we finally arrived at our destination, Gyantse, altitude 3,800m.

ENROUTE PICTURES

Just out of Lhasa we are greeted by this 1000 Year Old Cliffside Buddha meditating beside the Lhasa river and wishing us "Safe Journey"

The wild and dusty road to Gyantse

The first pass of the day is Gangbala Pass altitude 4852m

Lake Yumdrok Tso viewed from the top of Gangbala. Also known as Turquoise Lake it is one of Tibet's holiest lakes. The altitude and brilliant sunlight makes the waters shimmer in changing shades.

Another view of Gangbala with prayer flags and woolly yak.

Olive mountains, turquoise waters -- Lake Yumdrok Tso

Holy flock by the holy lake

Karola Glacier altitude 5045m. We also call it Crystal Mountain because of the many crystals available for sale and many strewn on the grounds

Karola Glacier. Although it was sunny on Gangbala and Lake Yumdrok, by the time we arrived at Karola, it was dark and chilly giving us another picture of the mountains.

Karola Glacier. Nice place for a picnic with the benches provided. But our guide thought otherwise. He already had our lunch booked at the designated eating house

Simila Pass altitude 4330m, our last Pass for the day. Thousands of white scarves decorate the Pass to thank the gods for safe journey

 
Another Holy Lake? No this is a beautiful body of water created by damming a nearby river.

Gyantse Town with Gyantse Fort and Little Wall of China in background. The fortifications withstood British aggressors in 1904.

Another view of the wall that defeated the British invaders.

The Kumbum Stupa, Gyantse’s landmark is the finest example of 15th century Newar art extant in the world. Sometimes known as the Wedding Cake because of its multi tiers it is actually symbolic of the various levels of Enlightenment in Buddhist Teachings.

SHIGASTE : HOME OF THE PANCHEN LAMA

Continuing with the last leg of our Tibet trip we were on the road again to Shigaste Tibet's second largest city. Situated at 3900m it is about 100km away fom Gyantse. On the two and a half hours roller coaster drive, the road conditions varied from good to bad to good again.

The highway follows the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra) river climbing up narrow gorges and plunging into broad river valleys. Pastoral farmlands, rich pastures, ochre mountains, vast horizons and rural scenes engaged our visual senses as we bumped along. We journeyed on with this feeling of ji xin ku, you xin fu. (mixed feelings of hardship and blessings)

Shigaste is the seat of the Panchen Lama and the Tashilunpo Monastery was the main target of our travel to this Tibetan outpost.

SHIGASTE PICTURES

Tashilunpo Monastery

Tashilunpo Monastery, Shigaste's foremost attraction, was built in 1447. Tashilunpo sprawling over nearly 300,000 square meters and nestling among peaks and willow groves,is made up of chortens, temples and the Panchen Lama’s palace.

The monastery is a striking red, white and black Tibetan structure with a golden roof. At its peak, Tashilunpo held more than 4,000 monks in its monasteries. Within the Tashilunpo monastery there is a 26 meters statue of the Maitreya Buddha of the Future cast from 6,700 ounces of gold and over 115,000 kg of copper.

Stupas housing the embalmed remains of past Panchen Lamas.

Some of the floors within the monastery are encrusted with

semi precious stones such as this turquoise symbol.

Terrace for Sunning Thangkas. The wall is used for displaying
enormous Thangkas during religious festivals.

Courtyard of the Main Hall. The walls are entirely covered
with murals of Buddha.

Some wall murals in the chapels