HUNZA PART 1

---THE FIRST SHANGRILA---
HUNZA
Where Mountains Meet    

Secret and elusive the Hunza Valley @ 8,000ft  is hemmed in by 20,000 ft mountains

Tucked in the Northern corner of Pakistan, are some of the most pristine and unspoilt mountain ranges in the world. This is the region with the greatest concentration of highest peaks and the most extensive glacier system outside of the Poles. Here, too, is the meeting point of the three greatest ranges, the Himalayas, the Karakorums and the Hindu Kush.

Known as the Northern Areas, this region was opened to tourism with the completion of the Karakoram Highway (KKH)in 1978. The KKH, a fantastic highway built with Chinese cooperation, took 20 years to complete and at great cost to life. Following the ancient Silk Route, it cuts through one of the world's toughest terrains, to snake for 805km from Ralwalpindi, Pakistan's capital, to the 15400ft. Khunjerab Pass on the Chinese border.

Buried in a gigantic mountain range, Hunza was, before the opening of the KKH, one of the most isolated regions of Pakistan. It was the first Shangrila, dreamt up by James Hilton in the novel Lost Horizon. Now it is accessible via the KKH from Gilgit, which is in turn connected by air from Ralwalpindi.

The one hour mountain flight into Gilgit reputed to be the second most dangerous flight in the world, was thrilling to say the least and gave us a spectacular aerial view of Nanga Prabart and the Karakorams. Hunza is only 112km drive from Gilgit along the KKH. Signs along the route warned of slide-prone areas and obviously the whole terrain had to be handled slowly and gently. The cliffs looming overhead appeared ready to crumble at the slightest agitation.

 

Primeval mountains

SAVAGE MOUNTAINS

The Hunza Valley situated at an elevation of 8,000ft is hemmed in by 20,000 footers.The mountains are craggy and rugged exposing bare flanks of rock, flint and snow. The bleakness of the heights is tempered by terraced valley fields and orchards planted with an amazing variety of apricot, peach, apple, cherry and plum trees.

The people of Hunza are noted for their longevity as Hunza is also known as the Village of Centenarians. The famous Hunza water is purportedly responsible for the good health. Hunza folk dress in traditional colourful costumes.The women are particularly lovely in baggy trousers and loose shirts, thier heads covered with embroidered caps, sometimes topped by a scarf. The men also don woollen caps, sometimes with a bright flower tucked rakishly at the side.

 

  

The village houses are of mud and stone,often with an apricot or mulberry tree leaning picturesquely against it. The roofs are flat with openings to let out smoke fromthe cooking hearth. Ladders are used for commuting between different levels as staircases are not a feature of village homes.

 

Hunza Village Scenes

KARIMABAD

Karimabad, the administrative capital of Hunza, is off the main KKH. It is situated on a perpendicular slope which is only passable to jeeps and, the ride up was like being pulled up the mountain feet first with our heads dangling after. Luckily this stunt-like, vertigo-inducing ride was of short duration.

Our aptly named Mountain View Hotel in Karimabad provided us with an unparallelled view of the 25,000 ft. Mt. Rakaposhi which dominates the whole valley. Next to Mt Rakaposhi was Golden Peak, Uttar, Passu and a host of unknown and unnamed snow peaks sitting cheek by jowl.

Near the vicinity of Karimabad are two old forts worth visiting - Baltit Fort, 600years old, and Altit, 300years old. Both are perched scenically on cliff tops and have all the ingredients of fairy tale castles featuring ornately carved windows, posts and towers. Both are accessible by jeep.

 

Altit Fort

 Baltit Fort

 

HUNZA PART 2

GULMIT

From, Karimabad to Gulmit (2hours drive away), the next stop on our itinerary, the mountain contours grow sharper and craggier - saw-toothed, knife-edged, fluted peaks rear their heads in unending succession. At Gulmit, we put up in the deluxe Silk Route Lodge whose rooms are designed in celebration of mountains - the nearby Passu Cathedrals almost pop onto the private balconies while real-life snow peaks lie framed in bathroom windows.

Saw-toothed Passu Cathedrals from the windows of our hotel.

TREKKING IN HUNZA

Trekking and hiking is the order of the day in this region of mountain splendour and abundant glaciers. One of the greatest joys of trekking Pakistan's mountains is the complete loneliness and isolation. Many of the mountains are uninhabitated and some are so pristine and unexplored as not to have been trodden by human feet. The other side of the coin is that these are some of the toughest terrains and treks in the world. Also, not everyone is drawn to the special quality of these rocky monoliths - stark, barren, grey, unrelieved by greenery.

Visits to nearby glaciers may be made from both Karimabad and Gulmit. Uttar Glacier is behind the Baltit Fort and a day-excursion from Karimabad is possible. Hoper Village and Glacier is 25km from Karimabad and a combination of jeep cum trekking took us to the remote village and the 'female black glacier'. Day treks from Gulmit may also be made to the Batura, Passu and Gulmit glaciers. All these treks involved long strenuous walks over rough terrain with tortuous stretches of scrambling up and down loose scree, rocks and boulders, often in blazing temperatures and not a hope of shade in sight, hardly the stuff of a relaxing holiday but for some it was the ultimate in mountain experiences.

Passu Trek

Passu Glacier

Sweet scented valley above Gulmit Village, one of the few gentle valleys encounterd on trek

KHUNJERAB PASS

Our encounter with mountains climaxed in the dramatic switchback ascent by coach to the Khunjerab Pass at 15,400ft. Even in high summer, snow lies mantled on the mountain slopes while yaks graze beneath the Pass. The top of the Pass is uninhabited and is marked by stone pillars bearing Chinese and Pakistani national symbols. From the summit, the long road winds down into the Chinese province of Sinkiang. The temperture was sub zero and snow flakes were falling when we made a brief stop for the mandatory photos.

Yaks crossing the glacier near Khunjerab Pass

IN DAYS OF YORE ...

It had been a breeze for us riding up the Pass, snug and comfrotable in our modern coaches. But from the bleak and inhospitable scenery one can easily imagine travel in the Silk route

days when

"....the way was difficult and rugged, running along a bank exceedingly preciptous. When one approached the edge of it, his eyes became unsteady, and if he wished to go forward in the same direction, there was no place on which he could place his foot, and beneath were the waters of the river called the Indus." Compared to this saga of travel in ancient days, our return trip from Khunjerab to Ralwalpindi via the KKH, covering 805km and taking two days by motorised vehicles, seemed like child's play ...."

ROUTE MAP

TIBETANS

My friends are

H A R D W O R K I N G

G E N T L E

C R E A T I V E

and B E A U T I F U L

Ladakh

The Road to Enlightenment

Lofty mountains typically inspire men towards the spiritual and this is especially true of the mighty Himalayan range where Buddhist gompas or monasteries are a constant feature of the rugged landscape.The pictures here explore some of the oldest and most picturesque gompas in Ladakh, a stark high altitude desert located at the Northern tip of India.

Pilgrims toiling with heavy loads makes true the maxim that the road to enlightenment is not easy

Situated at 3350m Ladakh is buried deep inthe folds of the Himalayas and the Karakorams. Its other name is Little Tibet and it is a stronghold of Tibetan Buddhist culture. Nearly every village in this deeply religious land has its own monastery some of which date back hundreds of years and stand as huge staircases to heaven.Perched in aerie-like locations, these precious citadels of faith, continue to preserve centuries old rituals and traditions. They symbolise man's belief that the mountains are the Abode of Gods and here in these Himalayan Peaks Gods and mountains really meet!

The Mulbech Monasterystands as a beacon of faith on a rocky, barren road which leads from Kashmir into Ladakh. The monastery is built around a rock outcropping onto which the figure of Maitreya, the Buddha of the future has been sculpted.

The Shey Monastery perched on a knife edged ridge, the path to the monastery is dotted with stupas and shrines.


LAMAYARU GOMPA Altitude 3445m

This heart-stopping lamaseryLamayaru is like a tiny speck against Ladakh's almost phantasmagorical mountainscape. Its buildings sit atop a tower of rocks and blend into the sand-coloured cliffs above and below. In this setting the chants of lamas really seem to float up to the heavens.


The Thikse Gompa is a 16th century monastery perched on a hill high above the Indus. Its muti-structured buildings houses many rare thankas, wall paintings and gold icons.

The largest and most spectacular monastery in Ladakh is the Hemis Monastery situated in the south of Leh, the capital of Ladakh The monastery is part of the Bka Brgyudpa School of Tibetan Buddhism which is one of four major schools. Its open courtyard, against a backdrop of majestic mountains, is a fitting place for Dances with the Gods.

HEMIS FESTIVAL

Every year from July 9 to 11, devotees make a pilgrimage to the Hemis Fair which is celebrated with dances, religious ceremonies and exhibitions of sacred objects and thanka paintings.The faithful attending the Fair come from all over Ladakh as well as from all over the world.

COMMENCEMENT OF THE TANTRIC DANCES

The dancers garbed in elaborate robes, black hats and copper masks, carry hand drums and bells while melodiously chanting mantras. The dances are ritualistic and symbolic, reflecting the lives of various gurus and Holy Teachers. It is believed people who attend these ceremonies will obtain spiritual merit, long life, wealth, happiness, courage and dignity.

A SEPARATE PEACE IN XIANGXI

Rural tranquility and natural beauty in the wild west of Hunan

Wedged between the mountain ranges separating the Chinese provinces of Sichuan, Guizhou and Hunan lies the relatively untouristed county of Xiangxi or Western Hunan. Xiangxi has a reputation of being Hunan's wild outland and if popular hearsay is to be believed, its mountainous terrain was once the lair of bandits and outlaws. But inspite of the rumours or because of it, my family and I were drawn to this strange backwater area, with its legends, minority culture, rich folklore and literary history.

Jishou is the administrative centre of the Xiangxi county and is 503km away from Changsha, the capital of Hunan Province. We made Jishou the springboard for visits to several interesting villages and small towns in the vicinity. In the course of our stay we travelled via local bus, train, taxi and ferry to explore enigmatic Fenghuang, (see related link) the romantic fishing village, Hibiscus and the remote minority hamlet of Dehang.

Jishou, the administrative centre

Jishou is typical of small towns in China which have experienced progress and prosperity but are as yet untouched by mass tourism. Its like a small boom town with wide pavements crammed with all kinds of merchandise from fruit and food to clothing, toys and household ware.

The most picturesque part of Jishou is along the banks of the Donghe. Here, traditional houses supported on wooden stilts driven into the riverbank can be seen. An antiquated ferry brings Jishou folk across the river. The ferryman does not use oars or motor. Instead, the small craft is operated by some sort of rope-pulley with the ends tied to both banks. To cross the river, just pull the ropes.

Fenghuang - or the Border Town

As the first excursion from Jishou, we chose the atmospheric town of Fenghuang. It is the birthplace of noted Chinese writer Shen Congwen who based his celebrated novel Border Town on this region. We boarded a bus at the Jishou Long Distance Bus Station and the 53km distance was covered in 40mins. Like Jishou, Fenghuang also boasts a small river - the Tuojiang and strolling along its banks gave us an opportunity to imbibe the spirit of Fenghuang.

The whole landscape appeared to have emerged from a Chinese ink painting. The dark waters of the Tuojiang blending with the autumn tinted weeping willows by the waters edge evoked an immortal picture of Chinese river idyll.

Another day breaks on the on the banks of the river Tuojiang. Womenfolk pound the mornings washing, coolies haul their loads and fishermen harvest the river. Life hums and spins endlessly and Fenghuang citizens exhibit a calm indifference to outsiders concentrating on their work. They seemed busy, self contained and contented making us glad to have glimpsed their Separate Peace.

In the words of writer Shen, "....in the sunlight as they bent over their work. Peace reins supreme and the townsfolk spend all their days in a solitude hard to imagine. Tranquillity makes them reflect more deeply on life, makes them dream more......exactly what fills their minds it is hard to say."

Coolies trudged by bearing heavy logs

Fishermen harvest the river with the help of black coromants

The fishing village Hibiscus aka Furong Zhen

This sleepy fishing town sited on the banks of Mengdong He (Fierce Cave River)was originally known as Wangcun (village of the Wangs) When the award winning film Hibiscus Town was shot here on location it was renamed Hibiscus Town. The film, based on a novel by Gu Hua chronicles the lives of innocent, honest, hard-working folk who are destroyed by the political campaigns during the Cultural Revolution. The movie makes strong denouncement about the excesses of those tumultous years.

Hibiscus Town is normally reached by taking a one-hour train ride from Jishou to the town of Mengdong He (Fierce Cave River)and then changing to a ferry.

The mystique of Hibiscus Town is centred in the area around the harbour. The best way tospend an evening in this rustic village is to patronise the old-fashioned quayside cafes which offer piping hot dishes admidst panaromic sunsets

In the mornings, when grey mists envelope the harbour in gossamer robes, the ambience is both sininster and romantic, conjuring visions of smugglerrs, bandits and chivalrous swordsmen dressed in white

We caught a ferry to explore the Mengdeng river, which is more than 200km long and which offers many dramatic sights en route. The cruise winds through deep gorges, quiet valleys, steep cliffs riddled with caves and we met many people living in fishing boats along the remote banks and islets of the Mengdeng He (Fierce Cave River)

Dehang - a Miao minority hamlet

As Xiangxi is home to a sizable population of Miao minorities, we made a side trip to visit a Miao hamlet located in the scenic area of Dehang, about 30km from Jishou.

Miao hamlet located in the scenic area of Dehang,

 about 30km from Jishou.

Firecrackers greeted us in a traditional

 gesture of Miao welcome.

The Singing Miaos steal our hearts with songs

 declaring love and friendship

Most of the villagers are farmers and they supplement their livelihood with basket weaving, cloth making and other traditional crafts.

TRAVEL NOTES

Changsha the capital of Hunan is connected to all major Chinese cities including Guangzhou by air, rail and road. Jishou, the administrative center of Xiangxi (Western Hunan) is connected to Changsha and some Chinese cities by rail and road. The small towns of Fenghuang, Dehang and Hibiscus Town can be reached by local bus, train, taxi or ferry.

Why we chose to go

Riding the highest highway in the world

“It’s now or never and no second chance" was how one journalist described the travels of English novelist John David Morley to Lamalera, a remote fishing village in Indonesia. Although John Morley had heart problem and was using a pig’s valve to replace one faulty valve in his heart, he was still game to risk his condition together with the attendant dangers associated with the remoteness and inaccessibility of the destination. And all for his heart’s, desire to observe the near extinct practice of hunting sperm whales as a subsistence living.

Our overland journey into Tibet was nowhere so dramatic but counting all the odds, it felt quite comparable! The overland journey would pose a challenge for anyone but more so for our group of ten elderly participants (the average age was 65 with the oldest members at 78 and 77)if we consider the long hours on the road, the high altitudes we had to reach, and the fear of being trapped for hours on the mountain passes.

With mountains rising up to 7000m and peaks topping 8000m above sea level Tibet, has achieved fame as the Roof of the World. It is indeed not a land for the faint hearted or the old. And if Tibet is the Roof of the World, then Qinghai, which is the remote and equally forbidding province sitting on top of Tibet must be its Rooftop! And we were to traverse across this bleak and treacherous region known as the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau into Lhasa. On the plus side, land travel into Tibet may be the best way to go, not only for the spectacular scenery en route but because it can help spread the altitude gain over a few days.

What then drove us to embark on such an “expedition"? It was not a rite of passage. We were not out to prove our strength in the face of halting youth nor were we marking our aging. Unlike Morley I did not have heart problems but suffered from aches and pain. However I had long been enamoured of the Qinghai/Tibet Highway lured as I am by the evocative place names of Kunlun, Tanggula, Re-Ye Shan, and Feng Huo Shan, and the giddy heights associated with these remote mountains.

The idea of retracing Princess Wenchen’s journey into Lhasa was another strong pull. Among other sweet dreams I had been nursing about Qinghai and Tibet was this strange one. I fancied myself as a pilgrim taking the arduous overland road and tolling my beads all the way into Lhasa. Never mind if I could not emulate pilgrims who prostrate and kneel, at least I would not be arriving on a jet plane. Was this the meaning of embracing hardship or what the Chinese call the spirit of “jian ku"?

What the 78 and over 70’s in our group were seeking I do not know. Perhaps they did feel “time’s winged chariot" drawing near but from the positive energy they generated no one was having a death wish! They were a tough old bunch, these oldies. Not unlike the mountains we were to traverse.

The Highway winds through high mountains and rugged terrain

The Qinghai-Tibetan Highway which leads into Lhasa is a paved road covering 1947km and is the highest highway in the world passing through mountain roads above 5000m with the highest pass at Tanggula at 5231m. A journey along this highway is truly one of those one in a life time trips.

QINGHAI

Overland to Tibet

Xining to Golmud by train.
Xining, the capital of Qinghai, stands at the modest elevation of 2295m and is one of the starting points of the overland road journey into Tibet. Here the Qinghai-Tibetan highway wends through high moutain roads above 5000 m and ends in Lhasa.

Apart from its famous Highway, Xining boasts many other scenic and historical landmarks.The Ta’er Monastery is arguably one of Xining’s most famous religious site. It is one of the six biggest monasteries of the Yellow Hat Sect branch of Tibetan Buddhism and the birthplace of Tsong Khapa(1357-1419) the founder of the Sect. Apart from being a repository for Tibetan culture and heritage the monastery also displayed an unusual blend of Chinese and Tibetan architecture, with Chinese upturned eaves sitting on Tibetan flat roofs. Stupas, prayer bells, tapestries, flags and murals all showcase the richness of Tibetan culture..

Ta'er Monastery, Xining

Elsewhere the sparsely populated Qinghai grasslands present a lovely folorness - goats, sheep,yak, donkeys,nomad's tents,herder's huts and camp fires appear as blobs on the vast plains.Tibetan prayer flags and cairns are also part of the lonely landscape.

Lofty and lovely - Qinghai Grasslands

The present day road from Xining to Qinghai Hu runs through the fabled Tangbo road, as it was known in the past. It is now a paved highway which is as redolent with history as with mountains. It has formed part of the Silk Road since the 3rd century BC., after the region came under Chinese control.

The most famous historical figure passing this way was Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty. In the seventh century she was sent in a political marriage to King Songtsen Gampo of the Turbo Kingdom (Tibet). The marriage must have been a success as the Princess is much loved by both the Han Chinese as well as the Tibetans. Both groups have built shrines and memorials in her honour.

The Re-Yue Shan (Sun Moon Mountains) is a very important pass (at 3510m) and got its name when the grief stricken princess, discarded her Sun-Moon Mirror in a symbolic gesture indicating her severance with her homeland. A sympathetic river near by even changed its course to empathise with her plight, the Dao Xiang He (Back Flowing River) is said to be dedicated to her. A pavilion located on a hillock has been erected in her honour.

Princess Wencheng Memorial

The overcast sky, craggy terrain, and bleak horizon conspired to recreate history . It is indeed an eerie, mournful place filled with the ghosts of yesteryear.

Qinghai Hu also known as KoKo Nor Lake our overnight destination at  3239m is located 130km from Xining. It is the largest salt water lake in China and famed for its scenic lake views but the drizzle make sightseeing unpalatable especially since a few of us were nursing headaches, nausea and palpitations all classic symptoms of altitude sickness.

 

Our hotel is a complex of single storey buildings set within a sprawling compound not unlike our holiday bungalows back home. Although the buildings look run-down the rooms were clean and furnished with quaint old furniture, rather a refreshing change from the modern hotels in big Chinese cities. The only complaint was the shower lacked a shower head and the chambermaid tartly advised me to exercise some creativity if I needed to wash! That night with 2 panadols and a sleeping pill it was sweet slumber on a pillow full of beans.

Qinghai Hu on a rainy evening

Next morning we boarded an overnight train from Xining to Golmud. The train journey passes through the salt marsh region of Qinghai. The Salt Lake and Salt Pond formed by the action of glaciers is the largest salt production site in China. Part of the rail track and Highway is built on a Salt Bridge.

Golmud is close to the borders of the Gobi desert and it is a dusty dreary place. Golmud at 2800m marks the start of the “Roof of the World" section of the Highway where all the Big Passes are located. It is also a stopping point for acclimatization to prepare travelers for the high altitude ahead.